Common Questions

We formulate without fillers, silicone oils, or masking agents. Our water-based compounds genuinely correct paint surfaces through physical abrasive cutting rather than covering defects with temporary fillers. The result you see after polishing is the actual corrected paint condition — not an illusion that washes away after one cycle. This philosophy is central to every product we develop.

Our product line serves three main user groups: 1) Professional body shops and detailing studios requiring high-efficiency, consistent results; 2) Car wash and beauty shops needing reliable daily maintenance products; 3) DIY enthusiasts who want professional-grade results without extensive training. Products like J1 and X1 require no special equipment, while J2, J5, and J10 are designed for machine application.

Yes. All our compounds and waxes are compatible with every automotive paint system: base coat/clear coat, single-stage paint, metallic finishes, ceramic-coated surfaces, and gel coats (marine/RV). Our water-based formulas are pH-neutral, non-corrosive, and free from harsh solvents that can damage sensitive clear coats.

Absolutely. X1 Quick Liquid Wax and J1 3-in-1 Cleaning Wax are designed for hand application with zero learning curve. For machine-polished products (J2, J5, J10), we provide detailed application parameters including speed settings, pad selection, and technique guidance. The learning curve is manageable — but the results are professional-grade from your very first use.

Our water-based formulas contain significantly fewer VOCs than traditional solvent-based products. J2 uses a pure water-based formula with zero organic solvents. All products comply with China's GB/T environmental standards. They're safer for the environment, safer for technicians during daily use, and align with increasingly strict environmental regulations worldwide.

All DianYe products have a 3-year shelf life from the manufacture date. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid temperatures above 40°C (104°F) as heat can affect product consistency. Always reseal containers tightly after use to prevent solvent evaporation and thickening. Do not freeze — protect from frost during winter storage.

Yes, we actively support wholesale procurement with volume-based pricing. Shop owners and regional distributors can apply for exclusive territory representation. Contact us at +86-18923492297 or email for pricing, MOQ details, and distribution terms in your market.

We provide multiple support channels: 1) Video tutorials on our social media channels demonstrating product application techniques; 2) Detailed written guides on our Tutorials page; 3) Direct technical consultation via phone or email for professional users. For distributors, we also offer on-site training programs.

The core difference is the carrier system. Solvent-based compounds use organic solvents (mineral oil, silicone oil) which can create a masking effect — filling scratches rather than removing them, leading to 'paint bounce-back' weeks later. J2 uses a pure water-based formula with no organic solvents. The abrasives do the actual work through controlled physical cutting. Advantages: no masking/filler effect, no paint bounce-back, ~30% higher cutting efficiency, easy cleanup with water, and no harsh odor during application.

J2 works on all automotive paint systems: OEM factory clear coats, aftermarket refinishes, and custom paints. It's proven effective across all major vehicle brands — German (BMW, Mercedes, VW, Audi), Japanese (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Lexus), American (Ford, GM, Tesla), Chinese (BYD, Geely, Great Wall), and European marques. Common applications include scratch removal, oxidation correction, orange peel leveling, and paint restoration on both new and repainted surfaces.

J2 is designed for light to moderate paint defects: 1) Swirl marks and spider-web scratches: excellent results, typically eliminated in 1–2 passes; 2) Light scratches (depth < 0.02mm): significant improvement, 90%+ removal; 3) Moderate scratches (depth 0.02–0.1mm): visible improvement when paired with a wool cutting pad; 4) Deep scratches (primer exposed): cannot be removed by polishing alone — touch-up paint is required first, then J2 can blend and level the surrounding area.

Recommended settings: Machine type: Rotary (RO) polisher for maximum cutting, or DA (dual action) for safer operation. Speed: 1500–1800 RPM for rotary. Pad: Wool pad for heavy cutting, foam pad for medium correction. Product amount: 2–3 pea-sized dots per 60×60cm section. Working time: 20–40 seconds per section. Pressure: Light to moderate — let the abrasives do the work, never force it. Ambient and surface temperature: 15–30°C (59–86°F) ideal.

Key safety measures: 1) Wear safety glasses to prevent abrasive splatter; 2) Ensure adequate ventilation in the workspace; 3) Never polish in direct sunlight or on hot paint surfaces (target 15–25°C paint temperature); 4) Keep the pad lubricated with product — dry polishing generates excessive heat and can cause holograms; 5) Limit each section to 30–40 seconds maximum; 6) Wipe residue immediately with a clean microfiber towel; 7) Always test on an inconspicuous area first.

Durability depends on environment and aftercare: Indoor/garage-kept vehicles: 6–12 months. Outdoor parking: 3–6 months. Harsh environments (industrial areas, coastal salt air): 1–3 months. To maximize longevity, follow up with J5 mirror finish and a protective wax layer (J1 or X1). Regular washing with pH-neutral shampoo and avoiding acidic contaminants will also extend results.

They serve different purposes and are not applied simultaneously to the same area. J2 is for cutting/correction (removing defects), while J1 is for maintenance/care (cleaning, shining, protecting). The typical workflow is: J2 correction first → then J5 finishing → then J1 or X1 for protection. If the paint only needs light maintenance, J1 alone is sufficient.

J1 combines three functions in a single product: 1) Cleaning — contains mild abrasives and surfactants that remove bonded contaminants like bird droppings, tree sap, bug residue, and light oxidation; 2) Polishing/Shining — enriched with Brazilian carnauba wax and polymer gloss enhancers that deliver immediate mirror-like shine; 3) Protection — deposits a thin protective film on the paint surface that resists UV, oxidation, and water spotting. One application replaces a traditional 3-step process.

J1 is ideal for: 1) Routine maintenance — monthly application to keep paint looking fresh; 2) Pre-show preparation — quick visual enhancement before car shows or events; 3) Used car reconditioning — removing light oxidation and restoring gloss before sale; 4) Pre-polish surface prep — cleaning the surface before machine polishing for better results; 5) Post-rain cleanup — removing water spots and acid rain marks. It's especially suited for DIY users who want professional results without investing in power tools.

J1 is specifically designed for hand application — no machine required. Recommended tools: 1) Basic: clean microfiber towel; 2) Upgraded: foam applicator pad; 3) Optional: small DA polisher for larger panels. Method: apply a coin-sized amount to the towel or pad, spread evenly over a 60×60cm section using circular or cross-hatch motions, then buff to a high-gloss finish with a clean microfiber towel.

They address completely different needs. Car wash soap removes loose surface dirt (dust, mud) through surfactant action — it's for routine cleaning. J1 goes much deeper: it removes bonded contaminants (oxidation, tar, sap), enhances gloss through mild polishing action, and deposits a protective wax layer. Think of it this way: car wash is daily hygiene, J1 is a monthly deep-care treatment. We recommend weekly washing with soap, plus J1 application 1–2 times per month.

J1 is designed specifically for exterior painted surfaces. Not recommended for: interior plastics (can leave greasy residue), leather seats (may cause staining), glass (will leave hazy film), rubber trim (can cause whitening). J1 can be safely used on: body paint, bumpers (painted), headlight housings (plastic), and alloy wheels (painted/clear-coated metal). For interior cleaning, use a dedicated interior cleaner.

J1 can be immediately rinsed with water after application. However, for maximum protection longevity, we recommend waiting at least 1–2 hours before a full wash to allow the wax layer to fully set. The protection typically lasts 4–8 weeks depending on environmental conditions and washing frequency.

J5 is an ultra-fine finishing compound designed for the final correction stage — after heavy cutting (J2) and before protection (J1/X1). Its role: 1) Remove micro-marring and buffer trails left by the cutting step; 2) Eliminate swirl marks and holograms; 3) Refine the surface to a true, distortion-free mirror finish. The complete workflow is: J2 cutting → J5 mirror finishing → J1/X1 protection. Skipping J5 means any haze from cutting will show through under certain lighting conditions.

Yes, if the paint only has light defects such as fine swirl marks, light hazing, or wash-induced marring, J5 alone can achieve excellent results. J5 is the finishing step, but it can work independently on surfaces that don't require heavy cutting. For moderate-to-severe defects, you'll need J2 first to level the surface, then J5 to refine it.

Recommended setup: Machine: DA (dual action) polisher preferred for safety, or RO (rotary) for efficiency. Pad: Fine foam finishing pad (black or blue soft pad) — do NOT use wool pads as they're too aggressive for finishing. Speed: 600–800 RPM (lower than cutting speed). Towel: Clean microfiber for residue removal. Beginners should start with a DA polisher — it's more forgiving and won't burn through clear coat.

Recommended settings: Speed: 600–800 RPM. Pad: Fine foam finishing pad. Product amount: 1 pea-sized dot per 60×60cm section (less is more with finishing). Working time: 20–30 seconds per section. Pressure: Very light — the pad weight plus minimal downward force is sufficient. Temperature: 15–30°C surface temperature. Method: spread J5 evenly, work at low speed in overlapping passes, then wipe clean and inspect. If the desired gloss isn't achieved, one additional pass is safe.

After J5 refinement, the paint surface is perfectly prepared for protection — this is the ideal moment to lock in the results: 1) Apply J1 Cleaning Wax for 4–8 weeks of protection with added depth; 2) Or use X1 Quick Liquid Wax for a faster application with 1–3 weeks of protection; 3) For maximum durability, apply a paint sealant or ceramic coating. Note: don't leave the freshly refined surface unprotected — apply protection within 24 hours and avoid rain exposure before sealing.

J10 is designed for: 1) Oil film and water spot haze — the most common windshield clarity issue; 2) Light scratches — wiper marks (depth < 0.1mm), light fingernail marks, automated car wash scratches; 3) Oxidation film — hazy buildup from long-term exposure without cleaning; 4) Bird dropping etching — light etching that hasn't penetrated deeply; 5) Tree sap and bug residue buildup. Not suitable for: deep scratches (felt with significant catch), cracked/chipped glass, or delamination in laminated glass.

Glass polish has limited effectiveness on depth: 1) Light scratches (barely visible but tactile): repairable; 2) Moderate scratches (visible but not deep into glass substrate): 60–80% improvement; 3) Deep scratches (clearly felt, can insert a fingernail): cannot be fully repaired — glass replacement is the only safe option. Test method: run your fingernail across the scratch. If you feel a distinct catch, it's likely beyond polish repair. Glass has limited thickness, and over-polishing can cause optical distortion.

Recurring oil film typically has underlying causes: 1) Worn wiper blades — old rubber continuously deposits residue; replace wipers first; 2) No glass protection — apply a glass coating/hydrophobic layer after polishing to prevent re-contamination; 3) Low-quality washer fluid — switch to a reputable brand; 4) Environmental factors — parking near restaurants (cooking oil), industrial areas. Prevention: clean glass regularly with a dedicated glass cleaner, avoid parking under trees, and maintain a protective coating after J10 treatment.

The front windshield can be polished, but with important caveats: 1) Windshields are laminated glass — only polish the outer surface; 2) Control polishing intensity carefully to avoid optical distortion that could affect driving visibility; 3) Wiper contact areas need extra attention — uneven wiper arm pressure can cause inconsistent material removal; 4) If uncertain, consult a professional glass service. Front windshield work directly impacts driving safety — when in doubt, seek expert assistance.

When used correctly, J10 will not damage glass. However, improper use carries risks: 1) Over-polishing — holding the polisher on one spot too long can create a depression/optical distortion; 2) Recommended limit: maximum 30 seconds per section before checking results; 3) Heat management — avoid polishing hot glass, as heat accelerates the abrasive action unpredictably; 4) Thorough cleanup — rinse completely after polishing to remove all abrasive residue. Always test on a small, inconspicuous area first.

Different areas require different considerations: 1) Side mirrors — glass surface is safe to polish; 2) Sunroofs — can be polished, but protect the rubber seal edges from abrasive contact; 3) Tinted glass (some rear windows) — use with caution, the tint film coating may be damaged by abrasives; 4) Glass with existing coatings — not recommended, polishing will strip hydrophobic or other applied coatings. Always identify the glass type before polishing and test in a small area.